Coaching Index


Accuracy
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To be a consistent bowler you must have perfect accuracy. The biggest factor is the position of the shoulders and your non sliding foot or balance foot. It is essential to keep your shoulders aligned with your target line in the stance, throughout the approach, and during the release and follow through. The following are the most common problems resulting inaccuracy.

Opened & Closed Shoulders

The shoulders can either be open, straight, or closed in relation to the lane. Open is when they are turned away from the center pin. Straight is when they are aligned with the foul line. Closed is when they are turned from the center pin. As stated before: For the best accuracy the shoulders must be straight in relation to the target line.

  • Open Shoulders (Ball Out). Ball will miss to the right for Right Handed Bowlers, for left handers it will miss to the left.
  • Closed Shoulders (Ball In). The ball will miss to the left for Right Handed Bowlers, for left handers it will miss to the right.

Improper timing usually causes the problem of the opening or closing of the shoulders. This usually begins with the first step of the approach. If you move your hand and foot as one during the first step, you shouldn't have this problem. Its important to realize: A perfect start equals a perfect finish.

To solve this problem: try lowering or raising the ball in the stance, if you are having problems timing your arm swing to meet your feet movements.

  • If your arm swing is faster than your feet movements, you should raise the ball to chest level in the stance.
  • If your arm swing is slower than your feet movements, you should lower the ball to waist level in the stance.
Shoulder Rocking

Another problem that hampers bowler's accuracy is the rocking the shoulders back and forth during the approach. This results in erratic ball behavior and inaccuracy.

The cure for rocking is simple: Keep your spine tilted in the same angle as in the stance. It is important to keep everything aligned throughout the entire approach. It may help to imagine balancing a glass of water on your shoulders, and that you cannot spill a drop during your approach and delivery.

Drifting

The last problem that can impede a bowler's accuracy is the drifting either left or right during the approach. This results in inaccuracy.

To determine if your drifting, note which boards you begin your stance (you should beware of this anyway), proceed with your approach, and after the shot, check which boards you are on. If you ended up over 3 boards to the right or left of where you lined up in the stance you are drifting.

The alignment dots that you use to line up with in your stance are in line with the reference dots beside the foul line. Thus, if you lined up with the center alinement dot, you should be in line with the center reference dot near the foul line.

As with an inaccurate arm swing, drifting is usually caused by improper timing. If the arm swing is not properly timed with the footsteps, the body will not be balanced properly. This can result in the body drifting right or left.



Lane Conditions
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Adjusting to Lane Conditions

Specially developed oil or conditioners are applied to bowling lanes primarily to reduce friction and protect the lane surface. Most are made from medical grade mineral oil and may have some extra additives to increase it's surface tension and durability. Cleaners with solvents or lower amounts of "solids" which creates more inconsistency are no longer in use by most centers.

The lanes must be conditioned often since most oils begin to evaporate as soon as they are applied to the lane. Newer oils have been developed to last longer and remain more consistent throughout the day, but can only be applied with very expensive and highly technical lane conditioning machines.

Lane conditions can also be effected by the number of people that bowled on the lane, types of balls used, overhead lighting, the porosity of the lane surface, humidity, and temperature of the center.

The pattern of where the dressing is applied is also very important. The condition of the lane's surface can also become an important factor. All of these factors play an important role on the ball's reaction with the lane once it leaves the bowlers fingers.

Consistency Must Be Achieved First!

Before attempting to adjust to conditions, you must have a consistent delivery and release. Do not attempt to adjust if you do not:

  • Have an accurate, consistent arm swing.
  • Have a properly timed arm swing with your foot movements.
  • Have mastered your release, and it is the same every time.
  • Have a straight approach, without drifting more than 3 boards to the left or the right.

Once these factors are consistent, its time to start considering the condition of the lane and how to adjust.

Types of Conditions

Oily, Medium, and Dry are the three basic types of lane conditions that you can encounter. The oilier the lane the more the ball will skid before it begins to roll and then hook. If the lanes are dry the ball will skid less, roll and then hook much earlier and more than it would on an oiler lane.

  • Oily Lane = Less Hook
  • Dry Lane = More, earlier Hook.
How to Adjust

There are two basic rules for adjusting to lane conditions:

#1 Move in the Direction of the Error

If your ball is consistently missing to the right, move to the right in the stance. If your ball is consistently missing to the left, move to the left. You should move the same amount of boards by which you missed. It is important to use the same target out on the lane and open or close your shoulders in relation to your target.

For right-handed bowlers, open your shoulders when you adjust to the left, and close your shoulders when you adjust to the right.

For left-handed bowlers, close your shoulders when you adjust to the left, and open your shoulders when you adjust to the right.

It is important to remember, to continue to walk strait to the foul line even though you may be moving to the left or the right.

#2 Take Advantage of the Conditions

When taking full advantage of the conditions you should play a hook game when the lanes are dry, or play a straight game when the lanes are oily. A hook ball is nearly impossible, when the lanes are very oily just as a straight ball would be difficult when they are very dry.



Etiquette
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Etiquette and sportsmanship are winning partners in any sport. Bowlers should be courteous and give consideration at all times to the rights of other participants.

Here are a few suggestions to follow while on the lanes:

  • Be prepared to take your turn.
  • Take your time but don't waste everyone else's due to useless posturing.
  • Don't go up onto the approach if a bowler is aiming or taking his shot on adjacent lane.
  • The bowler on the right side should bowl if two bowlers on adjoining lanes reach the approach at the same time. Step to the back of the approach and wait your turn.
  • Stay in your own approach area. Step back off the approach after making each delivery.
  • Be certain you wait until the pinsetting machine has completed its cycle and the sweep bar is raised before rolling the ball.
  • Don't use another bowler's equipment without permission.
  • Control your emotions. Don't make excessive noise, and allow every bowler the courtesy of making their shot without any distraction.
  • Respect all equipment as if it was your own property.
  • Don't carry refreshments onto the approach or sitting area. Spilled liquid can create problems for all bowlers.
  • Control your emotions on the lanes. Kicking the ball rack does not help anyone.
  • "Modest in victory, gracious in defeat" is a GREAT motto!


Excuse List
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So What's Your Excuse?

For those of you who are looking for a creative "reason" why things went amiss such as missing a spare, failing to strike or pitching a ball into the gutter, the following list is provided with understanding and compassion. After all, who among us has not had cause to preserve our dignity at one time or another?

Its the Bowling Center's Fault
  • Lanes are too oily.
  • Lanes are too dry.
  • Oil/conditioner has evaporated since the 1st game.
  • Lanes need resurfacing.
  • Approach is too slick.
  • Approach is too sticky.
  • Light over the pins is too dull.
  • Ball scratched by ball return.
  • It's too hot.
  • It's too cold.
  • Ceiling fans too breezy.
  • Ceiling fans not working.
  • No coffee.
  • Music too loud.
  • Music not loud enough.
  • Beer to warm.
  • Bar doesn't open till noon.
  • Toilet paper is too rough.
  • Proprietor lays shot only he/she can throw.
  • The neighboring house is better.
Its the Equipment's Fault
  • Thumb hole needs to be redrilled.
  • Edge of thumb hole too rough.
  • Thumb/finger hole needs tape.
  • Ball needs cleaning/resurfacing.
  • Need a new ball.
  • Brought the wrong ball.
  • Need new shoes.
  • New shoes need breaking-in.
  • Brought the wrong shoes.
  • Forgot my: wrist support; rosin bag; baby powder; lucky towel.
Delivery Fault
  • Ball stuck on my thumb.
  • Ball hit my leg.
  • Bumped ball on the floor.
  • Lost my balance.
  • Missed my mark.
  • Stood on the wrong board.
  • Threw my arm to the right.
  • Threw my arm to the left.
  • Ball slipped off my thumb.
  • Approach too fast.
  • Approach too slow.
  • Timing's off.
  • Concentration's off.
  • Not relaxed.
  • Didn't follow through.
  • Ball hooked too soon.
  • Ball hooked too late.
  • Stood too far back.
  • Stood too close.
  • I'm experimenting.
Personal Problems
  • I'm getting carpal tunnel.
  • Had a bad night's sleep.
  • Hangnail on my finger.
  • Swollen thumb.
  • Tennis elbow.
  • Arthritis is acting up.
  • Had a root canal yesterday.
  • Need new glasses.
  • Forgot my glasses.
  • Brough wrong glasses.
  • Contact lenses are dirty.
  • Ate too much.
  • I'm starving.
  • Fight with significant other.
  • Just back from vacation.
  • I'm not warmed up yet.
  • Can't bowl like I used to.


Lane Design
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Pin Placement

  • The bowling pins are numbered from left to right starting with the head pin, also known as the # 1.
  • It is important to remember the pin numbers so you are able to discuss "leaves" with other bowlers or to have the center management reset a pin if necessary.
The Target Arrows

  • There are seven target arrows 15 feet from the foul line.
  • The arrows on the right side are for right handed bowlers, and the arrows on the left side are for left handed bowlers.
  • The target arrows are also numbered right to left for right handers and numbered left to right for left handed bowlers.
  • Note: The arrows, dots, and the pins are all in-line.
The Locator Dots & Foul Line

  • There are 3 sets of dots before the foul line on each lane.
  • Each dot is spaced 5 boards from the next.
  • All three sets of locator dots before the foul line are in-line.
  • These dots are used to line up your starting position each frame.
  • The foul line may not be crossed at any time by a bowler.


Mental Game
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The Mental Game

A bowler's mental game is perhaps the biggest road block to improvement in ones game. Bowlers tend to become depressed or angry at their bowling. It is especially difficult since improvement is rarely quick, and to see a dramatic improvement is rare. As with other sports and in life improvement in bowling is often in stages with long pauses in between.

Becoming too excited, or over-thinking the game are also common problems faced by many bowlers. On the other hand, others will lack enthusiasm and motivation.

Bowling Always Means Fun!

Once you feel bowling became upsetting or boring this is a "blinking neon" sign that you need to change your mental game.

Every time you bowl you should be faced with a different set of challenges. The conditions will be a little different, you'll be different, the pin action may be a little different. This is the challenge and the fun of bowling. Its important not to get so involved with improving your game that you forget to enjoy it.

Be Confident

As your bowling skills increase, so will your confidence. This can only be achieved through practice, developing a reflex action, and muscle memory. It is not something that comes over night, and you need to handicap yourself and know your limits.

Be Positive

You are what you think. You do what you tell yourself to do. Think positively while bowling, do not focus on the negative aspects of your game. Use positive reinforcement, and encourage yourself as well as others while bowling. The happier you are, the easier it comes.

Use Mental Imagery

Mental imagery is usually bits and pieces of your memories. It is important to think of positive mental images that aid in you in your bowling. Go step by step of the proper approach and follow through using mental imagery. Think about your ball hitting your target, and its result. Using this mental imagery will help you relax and reach your goals.

Be careful, not to think about any goals while bowling as it can add unnecessary pressure. Its good to dream about bowling a 300 or a new high series before bowling, but it is essential not to think about these goals while bowling. Concentrate on your approach, release, ball's reaction, and adjustments and your goals will follow on their own!



How to Keep Score
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How to Keep Score

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  • A game is made up of ten frames.
  • During each frame, a bowler receives 2 chances to knock down or "pick up" all 10 pins.
  • A bowler that knocks down all 10 pins on his/her first shot of the frame, doesn't take a second shot, and receives a Strike.
  • A bowler that doesn't knock down all 10 pins during his or her's first ball and "picks up" all the remaining pins receives a Spare.
  • An open frame refers to a frame where a bowler left 1 or more pins still standing after taking two shots.
Now that you understand how each frame works, its pretty simple to keep score!
  • An open frame counts as the number of pins knocked down in the frame.
  • A Spare counts as ten points plus next shot.
  • A Strike counts as ten points plus next two shots.
Scoring a Frame
  • The number of pins knocked down or an "X" for a strike during your first shot is written to the left of the little square.
  • For an Open Frame: the number of pins you knock down from the second ball is written in the little box on the right.
  • For a Spare: a "/" is written in the little box on the right.
  • A running total of the game is kept in the bottom of the frame.
The Tenth Frame is Scored Differently!
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  • If a strike is made in the first shot the bowler receives to more shots.
  • If a spare is made in the first two shots of the tenth frame then, one extra shot is received.
  • If you open or leave pins standing during the tenth frame, no extra shots is received.



Spares
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Spares

Making all your spares is the fastest way to increase your scores and best of all its easy to accomplish! All you need to do is determine which target or position to hit to make the spare, line up at the proper spot on the approach, and aim for the correct target!

  • Hundreds of spare combinations exist. However you only need to throw several different kinds of shots to make almost any spare combination.
  • The First Step would be to determine the Key Pin Position. The # 1, 4, and 6 pins are the most common Key Pins. Since most leaves will be best made by aiming for the position of those pins. However, other pins can be used as the Key Pin Position.
  • The Next Step is to move left or right of where you line up for a strike shot.
  • For a leave to the Left of the Head Pin move your stance position right three boards at a time.
  • For a leave to the Right of the Head Pin move your stance left 3 boards at a time.
  • When shooting for the # 1 or the 5 you should stay in your strike position without moving left or right.
  • For an example if you are shooting at the # 7 pin you should be standing just left of the 2nd dot from center on the right. If you're shooting for the # 10 pin you should be standing between the last two dots on the left side.
  • Unlike a strike shot, your shoulders do not have to be square with the foul line. It's a good idea to set the angle of your shoulders in the direction of the target.
  • Even though your shoulders may be prepostioned at an angle, you should continue to walk straight toward the foul line during your approach.


Spot Bowling
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Spot Bowling

To be successful at bowling, one must be consistent in delivery and approach. There are several styles of bowling that enable you to bowl consistently. Spot bowling is probably the easiest to master.

  • A spot bowler uses a target arrow or some other well defined spot as a guide to the 1-3 pocket. The 1-3 strike pocket is the ultimate goal.
  • Any "spot" on the lane may be used as this target, however a spot within the first 15' of the lane is easier to hit.
  • Merely hitting the spot does not insure success, so it is important to sight line each delivery.
  • Draw an imaginary line from the center of the body to the foul line.
  • Then draw an another imaginary line with the shoulder, target spot and pins included. Face the toward the pins, walk fairly straight and swing in line with your target.
  • As you walk to the foul line these two lines should not cross.
  • This will help keep your swing in a straight line, and accurate.


Four Step Approach
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The Stance
  • Hold the ball in line with the right shoulder.
  • The shoulder is in line with your imaginary line with the shoulder, target spot and pins.
  • The bowling elbow should be held close to the hip.
  • The body weight should be kept on the foot away from the ball.
Step #1 - The Push Away
  • Push the ball forward a moderate distance.
  • Then move the right foot forward. (Left foot if left handed.)
  • Ball speed can be changed by varying the height of the push away and the backswing.
  • Decrease speed by using a lower push away and shortening or reducing the height of the backswing.
  • This will help bowlers control the ball and hit the "spot"/target area.
Step #2 - The Downswing
  • The weight of the ball will cause the elbow to straighten as the left arm is extended for balance.
  • During the pendulum like swing move your left foot forward. (Right foot if left handed).
  • Keep your shoulders level.
Step #3 - The Backswing
  • Allow the ball's weight and momentum to determine the height of the back swing.
  • Allow the ball to swing naturally without any extra effort.
  • Forcing the ball back or higher, or bringing it back farther may cause inconsistency.
  • Keep your arm straight and in line with your imaginary line with the shoulder, target spot and pins.
Step #4 - The Release
  • Allow the ball to swing naturally without any extra effort.
  • Forcing the ball back or higher, or bringing it back farther may cause inconsistency.
  • Keep your arm straight and in line with your imaginary line with the shoulder, target spot and pins.
The Follow Through
  • The follow through should be in line with your target.
  • The bowling arm should come up higher than your shoulder, from the waist.
  • This motion should be consistent in speed and height so every ball is the same.
NOTE
These instructions are for a Right handed bowler, if you are left handed please reverse the instructions.


Perfect Strike
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Perfect Strike

Studies done by the USBC have proven that there is such a beast as the perfect strike.

  • In a perfect strike hit, the ball only hits 4 pins - 1, 3, 5 and 9.
  • The ball must hit the head pin precisely at the center line of the 1, 2, 4, 7 pin row.
  • The ball must also strike the 3 pin precisely on the center of the row.
  • The ball then continues through the rack to hit the 5 pin at the center of the 5-8 combination.
  • The ball must then hit the 9 pin.

According to a Brunswick study, it has been proven that a ball entering the pocket on the 17th board on the 10 pin side, for right handers, will result in a strike 100% of the time.



System of Bowling
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What Is the System of Bowling?

Alot of hoopla was generated when the ABC decided that a "new" system would be put into effect to standize ABC sanctioned lanes. Additionally, with the advent of the standardized lane conditioning, it relieved the ABC (and bowler) from verifying all 300 games during league play. Although this "system" has been in use since 1994, there's still alot of confusion as to what it _exactly_ covers and what it means to you, the bowler. Steve Lawson (slawson@uiuc.edu), after confering with his local ABC association office, provides a very insightful and educating look into the System of Bowling.


System of Bowling Defined

It seems that there has been quite a bit of activity and confusion lately with regards to exactly what the rules are with regards to oil amounts, distances, legalities, etc. In this I will attempt to outline the System of Bowling for all in terms that should be easy on our eyes. For the most part I will address the conditioner on the lane aspect but will hit on the other three parts briefly. As I write this it is with a high level of confidence that it is accurate because I not only have in front of me the ABC Rule book but also the guidelines for inspecting lanes as well as the most current ABC/WIBC Equipment specifications and other ABC literature that is appropriate. Things enclosed in square brackets [] are my comments which I hope will clarify some of the technical aspects of this.


System of Bowling (SoB)

The SoB came about as a result of industry studies which indicated that standards needed to be made for all components which are important in scoring. These four components are pins, lane surface, balls and lane dressing. The ABC Equipment specs folks devised the standards which I will address in each area, mostly with regards to lane conditioner. The SoB was designed to "forget about the past and start looking to the future", Darold Dobbs said. One VERY important aspect of the SoB is that the bowler will not be penalized for a bowling centers inability to comply with the rules (to a point which I will discuss later). All honor scores are automatically approved (unless a center has three points accessed, more on this later).


Lane Surfaces

ABC/WIBC has a reliable lane surface coefficient of friction device that measures friction on the varied surfaces. Using this equipment, testing resulted in specifications for the highest coefficient of friction allowed for a lane surface. The highest surface coefficient of friction of synthetic lanes on the market in the summer of 1991 was selected as the upper limit. In order to bear the ABC/WIBC seal of approval samples of all lane finishes must be tested to ensure that the frictional characteristics are not higher than the maximum specification.


Bowling Balls

Four new specifications to control bowling balls at the point of manufacture were established. These are moment of inertia, hookability, scoreability and coefficient of restitution. In short, the specifications are designed to place controls on how much a ball can hook and how many pins it can knock down. Sample balls are sent to headquarters for testing and approval. Approved balls bear the ABC/WIBC approved logo on the box.


Pins

Pins have always been fairly tightly regulated and no "new" specifications were made. There have been limits on the pin diameter, weight and weight distribution, center of gravity and scoring criteria for years and these stay in place.


Lane Dressing

Here's the one that gets the most questions and I will attempt to go into more detail on this one. Basically the rules state that a minimum of three units of lane dressing must be applied for the entire distance which the dressing is applied each time it is applied. [For practical purposes, three units will create a light smear when tested with light pressure with one's finger across the boards] Lane dressing inspections are to be made on lanes with zero linage since lane conditioner was applied. If a lane is in compliance at this time, it is in compliance at least until the next time conditioner is applied, at which time the three unit rule again comes into play. There is no minimum or maximum distance which the lane must be conditioned. It is just that WHERE EVER conditioner is applied to (say 35 feet), every board for the entire 35 feet must have AT LEAST three units of dressing. There is NO rule regarding the distribution of dressing either side to side or front to back within the dressed portion of the lane, only that there must be three units everywhere immediately after dressing is applied. In the area past where dressing is applied the only allowable dressing is what occurs naturally from "carry down". It is the duty of the lane inspector to check and make tapes (more on this later) wherever he/she feels necessary to accurately give a graphic picture of the conditioner pattern and amounts on the lane.


Lane Inspections

It is the duty of each local association's Joint Certification and Inspection Committee to ensure that each center is properly inspected. It is understood when applying for the annual lane certification certificate that a center must abide by the lane dressing rules. Lanes MUST be inspected for dressing compliance at least once per year unless honor score(s) are bowled, in which case the lanes must have been inspected no more than 30 days prior to the score or no more than 30 days after the score if not checked prior to the score. [For practical purposes, if a center is inspected every 58 days and each inspection passes, that is all that is necessary. It is within the judgement of the lane inspection committee to perform inspections more often if they deem necessary.] It is the duty of the inspection committee to know the conditioning schedule(s) of the centers within their jurisdiction and to make inspections as close to practical after the lanes are conditioned. All inspections (unless requested by the center, in which case they are informative to the center and not usually submitted to headquarters) are to be made unannounced in order to inspect the condition which the bowlers are most likely to bowl on. It should be the obligation of the inspectors to make spot inspections at different times in order to obtain a good variety of the patterns that a center might put out, especially if there is a large variance from day to day in the linage per lane.

The lane inspection itself has several parts. The inspector is obligated to make at least three tapes at three different parts of the lane. More may be made if the inspector feels this is necessary. At a minimum, one tape must be made within a foot or so of the end of the applied oil, in the dressed portion of the lane (i.e. if the lanes are oiled 35 feet, then one tape must be made at approximately 34'-6"); one tape must be made within a foot or so after the applied oil (36' in the previous example); and one made in the other dressed portion of the lane (say 15' in the example). Often times a fourth tape is made at around 50' to monitor the "carry down".

To make a tape, a tape pickup device is used. This device systematically applies a piece of Scotch Tape (exclusively manufactured by 3M with optical control for the tape reader) to the lane with pressure applied by a roller. A second piece of tape is then used to "lift" the first piece (from the underside)and sandwich the oil from the lane between the pieces of tape. [It is amazing that the tape picks up all of the oil, but IT DOES. I had the priviledge of working with a couple of grad students in the late 70's that had a project sponsored by non other than Brunswick to do this. We devised a prototype, all be it not as slick as the current model but none the less, a working model of this tape pick up device. Small world, huh!?]

You now have several pieces of tape, each approx. 4 feet long which you insert into an reader which translates the amount of ultraviolet additive it "sees" into numbers on a display which depict the "units" of oil on the lane. Newer readers offer a printout of the numbers to make the job even easier. These numbers are placed in appropriate grids on the form sent to Headquarters with a copy going back to the center. A center should know from looking at this chart if their lanes are in compliance.

Should a report be sent to headquarters with boards with less than 3 units (usually a stray board will not be cause for alarm, several in a row are another story) in the dressed portion of the lane, the center will be assessed one point. In short, a center can accumulate up to three points with only nasty letters and more frequent inspections required. When a center is assessed point(s), they are reduced back to zero after 6 months of continued compliance with a minimum of monthly inspections. Should a center accumulate more than three points, then the old rules of after the fact inspections anytime an honor score is bowled and this score is subject to approval only upon the finding of complying conditions as determined by ABC. Upon accumulation of four points the ABC puts the center "on notice" and their file is referred to the Certification Review Committee for possible Certificate withdrawl.

In addition to making the tapes, each lane dressing inspection also includes a check of the pinspotting accuracy, the gutter depths and at the beginning of the season, the weighing and inspection of the pins in use at the center. These checks are made on the same lanes checked for lane dressing. At least two lanes should be checked, preferably at each end of the house (5 and 21 would be reasonable choices in a 24 lane center) to account for variances in the lane conditioning machine.

As I stated in a previous post (that seemed to be misinterpreted a little), a center is under NO obligation to condition the lanes or have three units of oil on the lanes immediately prior to a league or tournament bowling. They just needed to have three units when they did condition (even if it was at 6:00 in the morning). As a matter of practicality, this is not usually what is done as the lanes are very often conditioned at 4:00 or so in the afternoon, and thus the first shift of league SHOULD be bowling on a minimum of three units of oil across the entire lane.



Terminology
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  • Alley - A bowling lane or bowling center.
  • All Events - The total of games bowled by an individual in one tournament, usually three games in the team even, three in doubles and three in singles.
  • Anchorman - The last player in a team lineup.
  • Angle - A combination of the direction of the delivery and the path the ball takes toward the pins.
  • Approach - The area at least 15' long, on which the player walks to the foul line.
  • Arrows - Sighting targets imbedded in the lane to help a player align the starting position on the approach with the ball path to the pocket.
  • Baby Split - The 2-7 or the 3-10 leaves.
  • Backup - A ball which fades away from the pocket; also a reverse hook.
  • Backswing - The path of the arm behind the body during the next to last step in the delivery.
  • Ball Rack - The space on the approach where the ball rests between deliveries. Also known as the ball return.
  • Bed Posts - The 7-10 split.
  • Big Four - The 4-6-7-10 split.
  • Blind - The number of pins given a team when a player is absent, the total being based on the absent player's average. Also known as a Vacancy Score.
  • Block - An oil buildup in the center of the lane which, illegally, helps guide the ball to the pocket.
  • Boards - The number of boards, normally 39, in the width of the bowling lane. Also, the aiming target in the delivery, such as "playing the 10th board" meaning the bowler rolled the ball over a self-designated point on the 10th board from the gutter, the board along the gutter being #1.
  • Brooklyn - A ball rolling to the 1-2 pocket for a right-hander, 1-3 for a lefthander.
  • Channel or Gutter - Drop off area on each side of the lane. Once a ball falls into the channel or gutter before hitting pins, the bowler shall receive a zero.
  • Certification - The annual procedure to check measurements and maintenance of the approach, foul line, gutters, lane, pin spots and the pit area relative to issuance of the USBC lane certification certificate and window decal.
  • Certified Competition - Any bowling competition conducted in accordance with USBC rules on equipment manufactured and installed to USBC specifications.
  • Clean Game - A game without a miss or a split.
  • Conditioner - The oil or dressing applied over the lane finish to prepare the lane for play.
  • Count - The number of pins knocked down on the first ball.
  • Deuce- 200 average or a 200 game.
  • DODO - An illegaly balanced or weighted ball.
  • Double -Two strikes in succession.
  • Dressing the Lane - Applying oil or conditioner to the lane.
  • Dutch 200 - A game of exactly 200 made by alternating strikes and spares.
  • Field Goal - Rolling the ball between a split without hitting any pins.
  • Fingers - Applying lift to the ball on release.
  • Foul - Touching or going beyond the foul line while delivering the ball.
  • Foul Line - The line separating the approach and the lane.
  • Four Bagger - Four consecutive strikes. Also a two-bagger, three-bagger, etc., for any number of strikes in a row.
  • Frame - One-tenth of a game. Each square on score sheet is one frame.
  • Grandma's Teeth - The 7-8-10 or 7-9-10 split.
  • Grinder - Powerful hook or curve ball.
  • Gutter - Drop off area on each side of the lane. Balls falling into this area immediately after delivery are known as "gutter balls".
  • Handicap - A means of placing bowlers and teams with varing degree of skill on as equitable a basis as possible for their competition against each other.
  • Heads - The first 16 feet of the lane forward of the foul line.
  • Headpin - The #1 pin.
  • Hook - A ball that breaks sharply toward the pocket.
  • Jersey Side - The strike pocket.
  • Kegler - German word for bowler.
  • Kickbacks - Side partitions between the lanes at the pit end.
  • Kingpin - The headpin or #1 pin.
  • Kitty - Money collected by the team captain from team members for splits or other pre-defined fines; usually divided equally among members at end of league or used to defray tournament costs.
  • Lane - The 60 foot area between the foul line and the headpin.
  • Lane Dressing - A substance used to coat or "dress" a lane also known as conditioner.
  • Leadoff - The first player in a team lineup.
  • Leave - Term for pins remaining after the first ball delivery.
  • Lift - Imparting forward motion with an upward follow through of the arm as the ball falls off the fingers at the delivery release point.
  • Line - Path of the ball from release point to the pocket.
  • Maples - Bowling pins or bowling lanes.
  • Mark - A strike or spare.
  • Miss - An error.
  • Move In - To start from or near a center position on the approach.
  • Move Out - To start from or near a corner position on the approach.
  • Nose Hit - A full hit on the headpin.
  • Oil - The substance used to coat or dress lanes.
  • Open - A frame in which the player fails to stike or spare.
  • Perfect Game - A 300 score.
  • Pin Deck - The area where the pins are placed.
  • Pitch - The angle at which a hole is borded in the ball.
  • Pocket - Area between 1-2 pins for a lefty and 1-3 pins for a right hander.
  • Point System - Determining the outcome of league matches and team position standings by assigning point values to games won by teams and/or individuals.
  • Return - The rails on which the ball rolls back to the player, often concealed below the level of the lane.
  • Rolloff - The 10th frame. Also, a match between players or teams to determine a championship or position finish.
  • Rushing the Foul Line - A common fault wherein the player reaches the foul line too quickly, ready to release the ball while the arm and ball still are in the backswing.
  • Scratch - Actual score without handicap.
  • Settee - Sitting area where bowlers await their turn.
  • Sleeper - A pin hidden behind another.
  • Span - Distance between thumb and finger holes in a ball.
  • Spare - Knocking down all remaining pins in the second ball or delivery.
  • Spit - Combinations of pins left standing after first delivery with a pin down immediately ahead of or between them. The headpin must be down to record a split.
  • Spot - The sighting or target area on the lane where the player aims.
  • Strike - Knocking down all ten pins with the first ball or delivery.
  • Target Arrows - Sighting targets embedded in the lane to help the player align start position. Usually 15' down the lane from the foul line.
  • Track - Path to the pins created by many balls rolled in the same general area.
  • Triplicate - Three identical scores in a three game series.
  • Turkey - Three consecutive strikes.
  • Vacancy - The number of pins assigned in league play when the team roster is incomplete.


Training
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General Reasons for Physical Training

  • A healthier bowler can withstand greater amounts of stress.
  • A conditioned bowler recovers quicker from injury.
  • A healthier bowler reduces his/her risk of injury.
  • Keep the body fit, and your mental energy will be high.
  • Enhanced physical fitness prolongs a bowler's energy level.
  • Improved physical fitness helps delay the onset of fatigue.
  • Training boosts energy storage in your muscles.
  • The bowler-athlete will augment societies' perception of our sport.
  • Training will increase your longevity in the sport.


Specific Reasons for Physical Training

  • Stronger bowlers can maintain a flexed wrist position more efficiently.
  • Flexible bowlers utilize the many wrist positions of today's game.
  • The stronger bowler can increase ball speed with greater ease.
  • Flexible bowlers are able to get into the finish position effortlessly.
  • A well trained bowler will be able to maintain balance easier.
  • Flexibility will increase backswing height enhancing ball speed.
  • Strength enables one to generate power during the release.
  • Flexibility helps free up the armswing.
  • Strength enables a bowler to throw harder at spares.
  • Stronger bowlers can throw the heavy balls as they continue to age.
  • Fitness will help you decrease your risk for bowler's tendinitis.


Bowling Specific Conditioning

Aerobic conditioning is the best form of cardiovascular training. Aerobic conditioning elevates the heart rate utilizing large amounts of oxygen, body fats, and calories to promote the activity. Examples of aerobic conditioning include:

  • Swimming
  • Jogging
  • Power walking
  • Cycling
  • Stationary cycling
  • Aerobic classes
  • Using commercially designed aerobic exercise equipment.

Each aerobic conditioning activity trains the cardiovascular system in similar fashions maintaining an elevated heart rate. Choose an aerobic activity which is enjoyable. The recommended training schedule is at least 20 minutes 3 days per week.




Benefits of Stretching

  • Enhances physical fitness.
  • Optimizes learning, practice, and performance of skilled movements.
  • Reduces risk of joint sprain or muscle strain.
  • Increases mental and physical relaxation.
  • Promotes development of body awareness.
  • Reduces risk of back problems.
  • Reduces muscular tension & soreness.

We can develop flexibility at any age with proper training. At the onset of adolescence, flexibility begins to level off or decrease due to changes in the connective tissues. Aging increases calcium deposits, dehydration, level of fragmentation, changes in chemical structure of tissues and replacement of muscle with fats, thereby decreasing flexibility.




5 Bowling Specific Stretches

  • Hip/Hamstring - lie supine on your back. Using both legs simultaneously, flex the hip joint and begin to bring the legs into the chest and stomach area. Allow the knee joint to flex and relax. Place each hand behind the same side knee joint using resistance to bring the legs farther up and into the upper body. Maintain constant contact between the lower back and the floor.
  • Hips/Lower Back/Abdominals - lie supine on your back. Using both legs simultaneously, bring them up to a 90-degree position perpendicular to the floor. Slowly shift both legs jointly to one side (L or R) allowing the trunk to turn. Continue rotating and relax both legs to the floor.
  • Calves - standing in front of a secure wall, place the feet one to three feet away from the wall. While keeping the knees extended, not completely locked out, slowly lean forward to the wall using your arms to brace & lower yourself. As you lean forward into the wall, keep the feet stationary in one place stretching the calf muscle. To receive an added benefit, on a second try relax the knee joint allowing it to flex as you lean forward.
  • Shoulder/Rotator Cuff - move one arm at a time across the front of the chest cavity. Use the opposite hand and press on the tricep muscle behind the elbow joint stretching the rear head of the shoulder.
  • Wrists/Forearm - stretching the flexors first, extend the arm fully in front of the body. Using the opposite hand apply pressure to the palm stretching the wrist into the relaxed extended position. Once the stretch is completed, immediately turn the palms down and stretch the forearm extensors by placing pressure onto the top of the hand.

Note

Consult your physician before beginning any physical fitness program!